NORTHUMBERLAND (and a few castles)

We drove about 125 miles northward arriving in Wooler our base for the next four nights.  We are in the care of Patrick and Paulette at The Old Mill B&B which by it's name you can probably tell it's an an old mill. No longer milling flour, the building has been converted into a three story home and B&B.  We are ensconced on the third floor which,due to it's age is slightly sloping to the east.  Each morning both Patrick and Paulette serve up a delicious cooked to order breakfast in the solarium.

This part of the country is very popular with walkers or hikers as we call them.  Actually walking is popular all over the UK with marked and signposted paths all over the country.  There are paths going from east to west and north to south.  

Many Englishmen take their holiday (vacation) by walking some selected path for a predetermined distance, stopping each night in a B&B, pub or hotel.  Many pubs have rooms to rent, inexpensive meals and of course beer.  We've manage to eat at several pubs which serve simple but filling fare.  After a 5 mile walk the stop at a pub is a welcome respite to quench one's thirst and fill one's stomach.

STEAK AND ALE PIE WITH PEAS AND CHIPS

Cathie and I both came prepared on this trip for taking some walks across the English countryside.  We brought with us our boots and trekking poles.  Using a very detailed guide book provided by our hosts here in Wooler, we were able to take a circular route in the Cheviot Hills.  Mostly a treeless landscape with rolling hills, one walks through farm fields and pasture lands filled mostly with sheep.  Sheep are everywhere in this part of England.

CHEVIOT HILLS

Of course this part of the country isn't just about walking,  it's also about castles and stately homes. Turn a corner and there is another castle or someones mansion.  In various states of repair from a complete pile of rocks.to fully intact lived in castle.  Your could spend days touring them as most sell admission tickets. We're being selective opting see most from the outside and saving the best for a complete tour.

LADY WATERFORD'S HOME

(of Waterford Crystal fame)

ALNWICK CASTLE

Alnwick Castle used in the filming of many of the Harry Potter films, has made it a draw for many visitors. Before Harry Potter fame the castle has been used in numerous films going back to Becket in 1964 starring Richard Burton and Peter O'Toole.  Ralph Percy, the 12th Duke of Northumberland and his family still live in the castle.

We took a drive out to Holy Island where the is another castle.  It was closed for the day so we had to entertain ourselves with a walk around town.  The Island is a tidal island only accessible by road at low tide.  The surrounding tidal flats are shallow and when the tide comes in it comes in fast. Before driving out to the island it is best to check the tide tables.  Many people have been caught, either stranded on the island till the outgoing tide or worse, driving across the tidal flats and being caught by the raising tide.

The little hut is for walkers who might get caught by the rising tide.  No such place to hide if you're in your car.

We continued to drive down the coast to the next castle, Bamburgh Castle and as advertised it is the king of castles.

THE LORD AND LADY RETURN

 LUNCH

JUST ANOTHER CASTLE

We've enjoyed our stay in Northumberland and had great weather to boot.  Got in some great walks, toured a huge castle, saw some great sights, too many sheep, so it is time to move on. Tomorrow we cross the border into Scotland for some more exploring and discovery.

mm

YORK AND THE YORKSHIRE DALES

We enjoyed London but as we leave we are looking forward to being in the country.  We schlep our bags to the Victoria Station, catch the tube to Kings Cross Station and hop the train to York.  After a two hour train journey through the English countryside we arrive in the rain at York.  We head to the rental car agency and sign all the necessary documents and obtain the keys.

Ok, now we've got a car, with GPS no less and we opt to leave it in the parking lot at the train station and walk to the National Rail Museum.  Only a short distance away and the best option allowing me to postpone the inevitable, driving on the wrong side of the road.  The rail museum was free as are all national museums here in the UK.  A great collection of historic steam trains and all the stuff that goes with them.

Now the time has come to overcome my fears and drive on the wrong side, or the left side which is the right side here in England.  The first thing to get used to is that the steering wheel is on the wrong side which is the right side.  The gear shift is still in the middle but because you're sitting on the right it is to your left.  The foot pedals are all in the same position as we're use to so we won't be confused.  Now that we have that all cleared up it's time to figure out how to get out of the parking lot. We managed to enter our destination in the GPS and we head out.  With Cathie in the left seat, she has been assigned the daunting task of keeping me on the right side which is the left side of the road.  Now remember right turns are like our left turns and left turns are like our right turns, all perfectly clear, Right?  When I first drove a car in France on a previous trip,  I heard all kinds of things shouted at me by other drivers. The thing was that they were speaking French so I couldn't understand what they were saying.  Here in the UK I had no trouble understanding the words thrown at me as we drove about. Once while I was on the right side, which is the wrong side there was an oncoming car who stopped before he hit me.  I corrected my error and pulled along side him and apologized explaining that I was from America.  He laughed and asked how long we were visiting for.  When I told him three weeks, he said, "well then you have plenty of time to kill someone".

We get out of the city without killing anyone and onto the more rural roads where I see what this baby could do.

THAT'S MPH NOT KPH

After following the directions given to us by Daniella (the name of our gps, named after the girl who solved my gps problem) we arrive at Hazelwood Farm in the village of Crayke  having only driven on the wrong (right) side of the road twice, hitting three curbs and narrowly missing several sheep.  We are greeted by Annette who is a bundle of energy and our hostess for the next three nights.  This woman never stops moving, catering to all our needs, answering our questions and making sure we are comfortable.  She even did our laundry.  Hazelwood Farm is a working farm where the family still raises wheat.  The B&B section of the house is a beautiful addition consisting of 3 rooms rented out to guests.  In addition there is a breakfast room and parlor.  Annette, or Netty as she is called, runs a first class operation, comfortable beds, large rooms, Egyptian Cotton bathrobes and a huge cooked to order breakfast.  In addition, there is yogurt, fruit, cereals, juice and toast.  The bar has been raised as we will now compare all future B&B's to Netty's establishment.

   NETTY

After a long day we were zonked, so Netty sent us to the local pub for dinner where we ate way more than we should.  We had this really rich cheesy thing on toast that comes to your table sizzling hot accompanied by a salad.  Could barely eat it all, but we somehow managed.

The next day the sun was shining and Netty mapped out a route for us so we would get a good overview of the area.  The countryside in these here parts is just stunning.  She had us going through small stone villages, past ruined castles and out into the moors.  Driving on narrow one lane roads through sheep country and past those picturesque farms with stone walls around their fields that you only see in guide books.

The next day we drove to the local Park and Ride where we caught the bus into York.  We spent the better part of the day just walking around the city checking out the shops on the narrow streets. We paid a visit to the Castle Museum which was very interesting.  A large portion of the museum is dedicated to home interiors from Victorian times to the 60's.  Very well done displays, with items from the 50's and 60's that brought back memories of childhood.  One of the main attractions in York is the Minster or the cathedral.  We managed to miss it.  I know, I know, we should have gone, but we just weren't interested.  I guess part of the reason is that they charge you about $25 per person to see the inside and I just can't get my arms around a church charging you to go inside.

After three nights in Netty's wonderful home, we were sad to leave, but the Northumberlands and Scotland were calling.  I would like to return for a longer stay with Netty so I guess I better start working on Cathie.

OH, WHAT FUN

As a way to save money, I'm always trying to save money, I figured I would bring my own GPS along on the trip so I wouldn't have to pay the $10 a day the car rental agencies wanted.  So I bought a Garmin with the European maps, got it home and updated the maps as instructed.  Used it some before we left and all is well.  While in London I turned it on just to see if everything was in working order. Well, it had a map, but no detail, nor would accept any instructions for guidance.  So I got a hold of the Garmin help line in the UK (probably in India) who told me I had to update the device.  Of course in my effort to pack light I didn't bring the USB cable with me.

So off we went looking for a USB cable.  Now of course it's not a normal USB cable, the end that goes into the unit is different than most.  So after traipsing around in the rain we found one at a computer store on Oxford Street.  Hooked it up to my computer, but it didn't work.  Called India again who told me that we had to have a Garmin USB cable and gave me a on-line link where I could buy one.  So we order one, to be delivered at our next stop near York.

Being anal retentive,  I wanted a cable NOW.  So we took a bus ride to the suburbs we found a auto supply store that sold Garmin products and they had the correct cable.  Back on the bus to the city and that evening I hooked everything up and, NO WORKIE!  The help line is closed until morning.  I do have a UK paper map, but it's not very detailed and my navigator can't read a map worth a darn (Sorry Cathie).  Anyway her duties in the car is to keep me on the correct side of the road.

So the next morning I use the B&B's land line phone to make the toll free call to the help line.  I'm halfway through trying to understand the Indian person on the line when the B&B owner says I can't use her phone, after having received permission to do so.  So I had to hang up on the lovely person in India, who I couldn't understand anyway.

But lo-and-behold, Daniella, the gal in India understood what was wrong with my GPS and e-mails me the steps to take to correct the problem.  These instructions were never found in the manual.  So I follow these top secret instructions by touching the volume button, pressing the top right had corner of the screen for 10 seconds, then a new screen pops up, select this, do that, hook to computer and update. Seem to be working so far.  The Internet connection is slow, or perhaps it's my computer, so I had to leave it hooked up and on all night, but the next morning I had maps.  Boy, that was a load off my anal retentive mind.

So we leave London taking the the train to York for the next segment of our adventure.  In York we picked up our rental car.  A very nice six speed diesel Volvo V-40, with, you guessed it, GPS.  I've got 4 USB cables if anyone needs one.

LONDON PART TWO

We spent a total of 6 nights in London and only scratched the surface.  I suppose you could spend weeks and still not see it all.  It’s a great city, but if you come, bring money.  It’s very expensive.  Oh you could go a little cheaper and eat takeout food all the time, but who wants to do that.  With the exchange rate at around $1.60 to the Pound it makes matters worse.  As an example we had a lunch in a pub, just fish and chips, a glass of wine an a beer, $50 and that’s a budget meal.  But we knew all this going in so we were somewhat prepared.

PICCADILLY CIRCUS 

It’s crowded in London, especially around tourist sites.  When we were at Big Ben, the sidewalks were undulating with people.  And this isn't the tourist season.  We went to Piccadilly Circus to see a show and the place was mobbed.  I estimated that 95% of the people there were tourist, the other 5% were the police.  Speaking of police, there is a strong visual presence of police in uniform and I sure many we never see.  We felltsafe here though, the people are friendly and helpful.  Sometimes in the tube it’s so crowded, you better be friendly.

So, what have we been doing you ask?  Well we went to a play and saw 39 Steps a great comedy/murder mystery. The cast of 4 was busy as they played many rolls, changing costumes often during the performance.

After the show we had a dinner at the Bengal Clipper, an Indian restaurant along the Thames.  Completely a new experience for us having never eaten Indian food before.  We had two waiters, the first of which spoke little or no English while the second was at least able to give us some idea of what was on the menu.  We lucked out and ended up having great and filling meal.

I had obtained some very difficult to get tickets for the Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower of London, so after dinner we headed that way across the tower bridge.

The Ceremony of the Keys starts every evening promptly at 9:53 pm and ends at 10 pm.  It is the locking of the gates at the tower by the tower guards, the guys in the tall big furry hats and lead by the Sergeant Major who is called a Beefeaters.  A very exacting and timed ceremony ending with a bugler playing a tune which ends exactly when the clock in the clock tower starts to strike 10.  Very impressive.  The tickets are free, but you must send away for them far in advance.  No photos allowed.

When growing up my family lived in England for a year.  I was 8 and 9 years old at the time so most of the experience is somewhat hazy, but I did remember where we lived and where I went to school.  Not being far from London, we took the train and paid a visit.  When living there in 1957/58, Woking was a pretty small place.  Now there are high rises and a shopping mall in the town center.  With directions from the local police to get me started, I did recognize the way to go to get to our house at #4 Horsell Park Close.  From there I was able to retrace my childhood steps to the school I attended, which happened to still be standing.

After lunch at a local pub, ($90, it’s not less expensive in the suburbs) we stopped by the church we attended and they were having a open house.  We were given the royal treatment and offered a tour of the bell tower, a place as a child I was never allow to go.  So we were lead up the very narrow spiral staircase by the bell ringer.  Reaching the top he was trying to unlock the door but had forgotten part of the combination to the lock.  With the staircase so narrow and I being at the end of the line, I was elected to climb back down, find someone who know the combination, and climb back to the top with the information.  We were rewarded with a fine view of Woking and on the way back down we got a tour of the bells and the bell ringer rang the bells for us.

On our last full day in London we paid our second visit to the Tower of London.  We saw the crown jewels, which are unbelievable.  You can see some photos HERE and read about them too. After viewing the jewels and some of the gold tableware from different coronations of kings and queens, Cathie wanted to go shopping.  Luckily our visit to the Tower wasn't finished.

The best part of any visit to the Tower, at least in my opinion, is a Beefeater tour.  The cadre of Beefeaters at the tower are all Sergeant Majors in the British Army.  Before being able to volunteer and be assigned to the Tower, they must serve at least 22  years, reach the rank of Sergeant Major and have clean disciplinary record.  Needless to say, they are what you might call an "old salt". They along with their family live on the Tower grounds, providing security and during the daytime giving tours for the throngs of visitors.  The tour was informative and funny.  If you ever visit the Tower, it's a must.

Our B&B is located in Belgravia, considered a pretty upscale neighbor.  Many countries have their embassies in this neighborhood.  Our B&B was located in a 17th century house, narrow with 4 levels if you include the basement where we were.  Although the location was excellent, within walking distance of many sites, the B&B was sub par.  I won't go into details, but we wouldn't stay there again.  Lastly here are some photos of  the neighborhood.

BIKE RENTALS

We left London on Tuesday and we are now in the small village of Crayke, just north of York. We are staying at a farm B&B, which is excellent.  Annette, our hostess is beyond belief.  More about this part of our trip later. Take a look at our B&B HERE.

IT'S LONDON BABY

We had a great flight over if you consider sitting in one spot for 10 1/2 hours as great.  I'll tell you that we spent the extra for economy plus and it was well worth it.  Somewhere between economy and business class, the service and food was better.  Larger seats with plenty of leg room and they reclined further than the rest.  So from now on for long haul flights we'll spend the extra.

We've been busy rushing from here to there and in doing so have been learning how to use the Tube.  Don't call it a subway, it's the Tube or Underground.  A subway is a tunnel under the street or a roadway which you walk.  The Tube is fast and relative easy to navigate, at least for a local.  It's best to know which direction you're going but I still haven't figured out which way is east or west.  But it's inexpensive if you buy an Oyster Card, which you load with money and use to ride the Tube.  If you use all the money you loaded on the card, you can add more cash at the station.  So it's the way to go, so mind the gap and hop on.

I won't go into great detail but we've been hitting some of the sights.  As a volunteer on the USS Midway, we had to make a stop at the HMS Belfast a WWII light cruiser.  A self guided tour with an audio guide much like what we use on the Midway.  In the gun turret they project video on the walls with a narrative by crewmen.  The guns move, when they fire, the deck shakes and smoke fills the turret.  A well done display.

  

Next it's a short walk to the Borough Market where there are food stands galore.  The place is crowded with the lunch time crowds all of whom are looking for the most appetizing lunch.  Every thing from sausages, to curries to paella to meat pies all hot and cooked on the premises.  Also great produce, fresh breads, cheeses and pastries.  We had a curry dish with rice, chicken and potatoes which as very good.

The market is under a glass roof to keep the rain off, which by the way it has been raining.  Of course it's England and it's suppose to rain,

After lunch  we tubed to the Churchill War Rooms for a tour of the underground bunker used by Churchill and the War Cabinet during the bombing of Britain.  An interesting tour and a must if you're at all interested in WWII history.

London is crowded and most of the people on the streets seem to be tourist.  Although we have not experienced lines at the sites we've been to, the streets are crowded with  people and the traffic is horrible.  If there is an opening in the traffic, some truck, called a lorry here, will race into the space a go like a bat out of hell til he's stopped by the next traffic jam.  It's such a mad house at some intersections that it's a wonder more people aren't killed.

  LITTLE CHESTER STREET

Our Bed and Breakfast is in a quiet neighborhood in the Belgravia section of London.  Rather upscale with old row house type of buildings.  We are situated on a back street from where you could throw a stone and hit the back yard of Buckingham Palace.  Of course the back yard consists of 42 acres so you would have to throw that stone many more times before you would hit the palace.

Being so close to the Queen's residence we figured we ought to pop by for a cup of tea with Her Royal Highness.  They made us buy a ticket to get into the place, but it turns out the Queen heard we were coming so she and the family hi-tailed it out of town for Scotland.  We did get to see the State Rooms in the palace, which were opulent.  Another great tour with an audio guide.  I noticed they put Prince Charles to work painting some of the window sashes.

Just some other tourist at the palace

ANOTHER EUROPEAN ADVENTURE STARTS HERE

The time has finally arrived.  After about a year of planning, in a few (4) days we will board a British Airways 777 for a non-stop flight to London, where we will begin our next adventure, 7+ weeks in England, Paris, Germany and Switzerland.   I have searched the Internet, posted questions on various forums, spoke to those who have gone before and have come up with a plan of sorts.. After a month in England, Scotland and Wales we head under the Channel to Paris where we will be meeting up with our friends from Germany, Hansjorg and Silke.  We will spend a week in an apartment in the 9th arrondissement after which Hansjorg has informed me that he will become the "Travel Master" for the remainder of the trip.  So for the last two plus weeks of our adventure we will follow Hansjorg's and Silke's lead to wherever they decide to take us.

For the first time in any of our trips lasting more than a week, I have made reservations for the entire month that we are in England, plus our apartment in Paris.  Choosing 7 B&B's and one hotel by looking at reviews on the web is a leap of faith for me, usually opting to see the room before making a commitment.  I suppose the downside would be if we don't like the place or area it will be more difficult to move on if we chose.  The upside is that we won't have to spend time looking for a place to our liking in each location.  So we shall see how it all turns out and of course the results will be reported here.

So feel free to follow along, post comments and questions and live vicariously through our adventure.  If you want to be notified when there is a new post on the blog and you are not yet on the mailing list, you can enter your email address in the upper right hand corner and you will automatically be notified.  Just so you know, I don't get to see your e-mail address if you use this notification link.

So stay tuned as I will update the blog periodically.  THIS is our B&B for our stay in London.

New Blog - Walking My Camino

I mentioned in the previous post that I was considering dedicating a new blog to my walk on the Camino de Santiago.  I've decided to go ahead and have started, Walking My Camino. I will continue writing Gassaway's Adventures, but all things Camino will be in the new blog.  I'll be starting out slow as it's a long time till I actually go, but from time to time I will post information about the Camino and my preparations for it.

You may notice that on both Gassaways Adventures and Walking My Camino there is a place where you can enter your e-mail address.  When you do this, you will automatically be notified each time there is a new post.  You have to do this in both blogs to be notified when there is a post to that specific blog.  You're-mail is not shared and in fact, I don't even see it.