SPAIN!

 We left Portugal by Bus, arrived in Santiago, picked up a rental car and immediately headed out of town.  Since we’re not walking the Camino yet we will be staying in different places in Glacia, mostly in rural settings.  Staying 3 to 4 nights in each spot allowing us to explore some.  First up a small village right on the Camino, just before Santiago.  We drove to some places on the Camino so I could show Cathie but also visited new places for both of us.

It’s been raining off and on since we’ve arrived in Spain, with cold and wind.  The other day it was snowing, so the weather has not been cooperating.  We drove to O Cebrero one of the high points on the Camino Frances and the last steep mountain climb for pilgrims before reaching Santiago.  Cold, windy, wet and foggy, just like every time I’ve been there.  Known for its stone buildings with straw roofs it still doesn’t disappoint.

With the hope of clear weather we took a look at Lugo, a pretty good sized city with a fully intact Roman Wall encircling the historic center of the city.  The top of the wall is walkable and a nice walk for about 1&1/3 miles.  Build in the latter part of the 3rd century it is a testament to the skill of the contractor hired to build them.  There were a lot of locals out and about being Palm Sunday.  We happened upon a procession from the Cathedral with the local children dressed as the Roman Solders leading the “float” with Jesus.

 We moved to the small village of Maceda which is close to the city of Ourense.  Rain continues as does the cold.  The Bed and Breakfast we chose is a winner.  Thomas, he’s German and Rosa, she’s Spanish were great hosts with Thomas going above and beyond.  More about the later.   Pazo de Chaioso is a multi room manor house which they bought 20 years ago in a dilapidated condition.  It had been abandoned for 30 years and was basically a ruin. The entire building was totally covered in vines and only a small portion of the roof poking out.  They spent 12 years restoring and upgrading and since 2019 have been operating it as a B&B.

They provided detailed itineraries on Google Maps allowing us to follow routes to sights in the area.  It was a great way to explore, just follow Googles turn by turn instruction.  It included historic sights, view points, wineries and restaurants to try.  Eliminating the need for me to spend time route planning.  A great idea and greatly appreciated.

One of the tours took us to Monastery San Pedro de Rocas (of the rock).  This is a 5th century chapel carved out of a cliff face by seven men who build it as a place of prayer.  There are even graves dug into the solid rock.

As many of you who follow this blog or on Facebook know, I am somewhat adventurous in my choice of dinner entrees when I travel.  Pigs Cheeks, Ox Tail, Tripe, Pig Snout and I recently saw Pigs Ear on a menu.  I’ll have to try that.  Anyway of all the different foods I have tried while traveling, I have never had any ill effects. But the other day I ate this:

A good ol' Bacon Cheese Burger.  Boy it was good but it did not sit well with me.  That evening I had some intestinal distress, if you get my drift, and it was to the porcelain throne  where I spent considerable time.  The next morning I felt better, but to make sure all was good I stopped at the local Pharmacy for something to stop the current situation.  After taking two as instructed  I wasn’t waiting around, so off we went to continue our exploration.  But I just never felt right and that evening after another visit to the throne, I took two more pills as I was instructed.  After that second dose, I wasn’t spending time on the pot, but I wasn’t feeling any better.

We moved on to Thomas and Rosa’s Place and I felt is was time to seek medical attention.  This is where Thomas went out of his way.  Took me to the local clinic, took my passport and told me to sit in the corner (well, waiting room).  He handled everything.  Shortly we were in front of the Doctor and Thomas gave her my medical history.  Well at least I pretty sure he did, but he could have said something about this stupid American eating a hamburger of all things when he could have had Sweet Breads or something normal.  But in any event, the doctor seemed to grasp what was wrong with me.  After an exam of her pushing different places on my abdomen, taking my temperature (normal) she explained to Thomas who later told me that the previous medicine I took had prevented me from expelling the remains of that Bacon Cheeseburger.  Off to the Pharmacy for some new meds to get the innards working again.

Now a couple of days later and I am 95% better.  Thomas saved the day and showed great concern for my well being.  So we have moved on and are now in the seaside town of A Guardia.  There was hamburger on the menu at the hotel restaurant but I opted for Barnacles…what could go wrong. 

ACROSS THE POND WE GO

 British Air left Phoenix on time and with that a on time arrival in London. With a 5 1/2 hour layover before catching our flight to Lisbon, we were lucky enough to score seats in the Plaza Premium Lounge with great views of airplane landings.   

The second leg was also on time arriving in Lisbon 23 hours after leaving Phoenix.  I was not at the top of my game and got taken advantage of (think ripped off) by the taxi driver.  I am pretty good at my research before traveling anywhere.  Before this trip I had looked into cab fares in Lisbon.  Who does that you ask?  Well I do.  Anyway I learned that the average fair from the airport to downtown was around 15 to 20 Euros, with an additional nominal charge for each bag.  We got in the cab, I didn’t see a meter so I said something to the cabbie.  He showed me a hand held device that he said was the meter.  He placed it back on the seat next to him.  The guy drove like a madman scaring us to the point where I told him to slow down.  He didn’t.  We got to our hotel and he showed me the amount on his hand held device. 48 euros!  I told him he was a thief, but at that point what could you do.  I tried to pay him with my credit card but he insisted on cash.  I wonder why. So I gave him 50 euros and didn’t think about to 2 euro change he owed me.  The long and short of it I got scammed.  What are you going to do at one in the morning on a dark street in an unfamiliar city.  It’s Uber from now on.

We had just two days in Lisbon, the first was just trying to recover from the trip over.  We really had no specific plans for Lisbon as originally we were just in transit to start our now cancelled Camino.  I did manage to find a great little restaurant with traditional Portuguese food.  We being the only foreigners in the place made it all the better.  Tables close together to maximize the space and so close you become friendly with your neighbor.

The next day we took the train to Porto, where originally we were to start the Camino.  Now just a stop on the way to Spain. We stayed across the river from Porto in Vila Nova de Gaia, the area where all the Port Wine tastings occur.  We did have some Port, but passed on the tourist spots and just drank it after dinner.  We had another great dinner in a local bar, again being the only foreigners.  Just by chance we found this neighborhood spot.  I asked the waiter if the cook would make me a special sandwich consisting of cheese, sausage and a fried egg.  No Problem and delivered to our table by the cook herself.

After a quick two nights in Porto we hopped the bus for Spain, where we picked up our rental car in Santiago.  Spain begins in the next episode, so stay turned.